Polynesian Culture and Tattoo in French Polynesia

Start at the Museum of Tahiti and Her Islands in Punaauia, which explains navigation, settlement and traditional life and makes every later visit richer. Then see the places themselves.

Tatau was a language written on the body. Designs recorded rank, family ties and rites of passage, and in the Marquesas warriors could be tattooed from head to toe. The word reached English after Captain Cook’s 1769 voyage to Tahiti, giving the world the word tattoo.

Missionaries banned tattooing in the 19th century, along with much traditional dance. Since the late 20th century, Polynesian artists have revived the art, and today tatau is a source of pride. Motifs carry meaning; Tahiti Tourisme notes, for example, that the turtle is associated with health, fertility, peace and long life.

A Polynesian tattoo is a collaboration, not an off-the-wall design. These steps help:

Marae are sacred stone platforms where ceremonies were held, and many are still revered. Stay off the stones, never move or take rocks and keep voices low. A local guide brings the sites to life and explains the protocols.

Dress modestly in villages and churches, and ask before photographing people. Small gestures, such as a greeting of “ia ora na,” go a long way.

Many resorts offer pareo-tying, weaving and dance lessons, and Polynesian dinner shows run through the year. Time a visit for the Heiva i Tahiti in July to see the best troupes compete. Food is culture too; a ma’a Tahiti feast from the earth oven is unforgettable.